Hidden Stop on the Ruta Maya
Isla Holbox, Mexico
In the past decade, the coastal idylls on Mexico's Mayan Riviera have been falling like dominoes under the flag of Senor Frog's. But a small island on the Gulf, 40 miles north of Cancun, remains unconquered. Isla Holbox – which requires a three-hour taxi ride on potholed, chicken-crossed roads through tiny villages, and then a ferry ride packed with grocery-shopping locals – greets you with misty breeze as you wander its narrow dirt roads.
The island's main mode of transport is a fleet of past-their-prime golf carts, a fitting symbol for this 26-mile-long, two-mile-wide, economic anomaly: a Yucatan fishing community living in a one-story cinder-block shacks near the main square that coexists harmoniously with longtime expats running tidy thatched-roof pensions and pizza restaurants along the beach. The hotels and restaurants feel like an archipelago of Swedish, French, and German Islands, as palapa-shaded residents, lulled by hammock and margarita, drift into a shared discreet congeniality. Your third mescal will make you feel like you've been dropped onto that floating city from The Empire Strikes Back (minus Stormtroopers, which are strictly mainland), in a vaporous, temporal community of visitors.
You're not here to get wild, drunk, or laid, unless it's by someone you brought along (in which case you will, and frequently). You're here to enjoy the kind of solace a millionaire would travel thousands of miles to find. The bad news: The island has an ATM. The good news: It doesn't work so well.
Chris Norris
Fly to Cancun and catch a connector (Aerosaab; $650 for five people), or drive three hours to Chiquilia and take a ferry ($4).
Casa Sandra is thatched-hut luxe right on the beach. (from $260). www.casasandra.com